Thursday, October 20, 2011

Matterhorn Ascent Part 1/2

Climbing the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge in August 2011 The video is split into 4 parts - Ascent 1+2 and Descent 1+2 Training: Good level of general CV fitness + 8 weeks of specific biking, hiking and outside stair climbing - **all with as much gradient as possible** + 10KG backpack. Outdoor multi-pitch climbing up to grade 6 (you wont need it but good for confidence and height fear). Get used to being on your feet with steep gradient (up and down) with gear & clunky boots for 6+ hours straight. Learn to manage temperature, vigorous sweating, rehydration, and nutrition on the move. Altitude training: Don't underestimate this. 5 nights sleeping at 1650M with 3 training ascents to 4200M (Breithorn, Pollux & Rimpflischhorn) then you hike up to Hornli Hut (3200M) stay the night and start from there at 4AM (with no sleep). Matterhorn itself: Take a 1:1 guide as it is impossible to find the route. Dress cool as you will almost certainly be hot on the way up - long sleeve dry fit top (+spare) + light fleece + leather climbing gloves + light windproof jacket for summit if windy. At least 1.5L of isotonic + 4 x 200g food bars. Take a couple of ibuprofen 200mg halfway down - your knees will thank you. Equipment: Head light, Helmet, Contour HD helmet Cam, Class B boots, crampons (- you do not need an ice axe) harness, 1x carabina, sweat band. If you push yourself you can be up and down in 6.5 hours - it is a grind but enormously rewarding from the top - the summit and upper half ...

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